NJ Jewish News on-line | A Djerba odyssey

by Ethel G. Hofman
Recipes have not been tested by NJJN
Ethel Hofman will answer questions; send a SASE to her at POB 143, Merion, PA 19066. Hofman, a syndicated journalist and cookbook author, is a past president of the International Association of Culinary Professionals.
This is the second of two articles by Ethel Hofman on the Jews of Tunisia and their cuisine
10.11.07

The island of Djerba is an enchanting destination. The low-lying sandy island off the southeast coast of Tunisia is a place where tradition and mythology survive. According to Homer in The Odyssey, Djerba was the Land of the Lotus Eaters. He wrote that the natives gave him and his crew "flowering foods" that induced such euphoria they did not want to leave. (Today, however, it's hard to find even one lotus on the island.)

According to our taxi driver, who was dressed in the island's traditional long, loose, black tunic, we were among the fortunates to visit "the island of dreams." Driving past centuries-old olive groves, golden beaches, whitewashed fortress-like buildings, and domed mosques, all made brighter by the Mediterranean sun, we were entranced. Although the tourist trade has changed the island, fishing methods have remained the same since the days of the Phoenicians. In villages, you can see the huge, unglazed terracotta pots belonging to local fishermen who still use the ancient technique called gargoulette.

Modern amenities and luxury are available. Hotels with marble lobbies and flowing fountains make you feel you've been whisked into a scene from the Arabian Nights. At the Khartago Hotel, our suite, filled with sunshine and the scent of jasmine, overlooked an Olympic-sized pool lined with yellow umbrellas as well as the sparkling Mediterranean.

But what drew us to Djerba was the thriving, ancient Jewish community. The site of El Ghriba synagogue in the village of Hara Sghira is said to go back either to 586 BCE or to the Roman conquest in 71, making it the oldest Jewish community in the world outside Israel. The building was constructed in the early 20th century with more recent additions. Some historians are convinced that many Djerba Jews are descended from the Berbers, Tunisia's oldest inhabitants, who converted to Judaism. The 700 Jews of Djerba fervently believe that a stone from the altar of the destroyed First Holy Temple in Jerusalem was brought to Djerba by a group of kohanim (priests) and now lies under one of the arches of El Ghriba.

Old customs abound. Women write the name of an unmarried girl on an egg and leave it near the arch. The tropical heat cooks the egg, which is then returned to the girl; if she eats it, tradition holds, she will be sure to find a husband.

Inside, the synagogue is a cool oasis with high arches and tiles of Mediterranean blue. Doors around the inner courtyard lead to rooms that accommodate some of the thousands of Jews who flock to El Ghriba for the annual Lag B'Omer pilgrimage. We took off our shoes before sitting under the blue and gold arches where during services our hands were sprinkled with fragrant orange water. The bima in the center is draped with diaphanous silk scarves, and although Peres Trabelsi, the congregation president, speaks only Arabic, we were able to communicate through an interpreter.

In Djerba, there is an atmosphere of religious tolerance, enviable to the rest of the world. This is where Muslim and Jew live side by side, where Arab and Jewish children play together in the streets, mezuzas are prominently affixed to doorways, and the magnificent El Ghriba synagogue stands not far from mosques. Kosher butchers, a yeshiva, kindergartens, and an old-age home are all supported by the Jews of Djerba.

The recipes here are based on dishes served at our luncheon at Dar Dhiafa, a tiny boutique hotel in Djerba with an excellent restaurant, and in local Jewish homes.

1 1/2 cups cooked fava beans or frozen, thawed lima beans
2 Tbsp. harissa or to taste
1/4 cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 cups shredded red cabbage
2 cups sliced carrots, cooked or frozen, thawed
1 small cooked potato, sliced
2-3 Tbsp. sesame salad dressing
1 cup canned chunk tuna fish

Place chilis in a small bowl and cover with warm water. Let stand at room temperature two-three hours. Drain. Using gloves, split chilis and remove and discard seeds. Cut in chunks and place in a blender or mini-food processor. Pour about one-third cup water over. Add salt, three tablespoons olive oil, garlic, and cumin. Process until blended to a coarse paste. Don't worry if some small chunks remain. Transfer to a jar and pour over a little olive oil to cover. (Keep face away when opening blender or processor — the fumes are strong.) Refrigerate eight-10 days. Makes about 1/2 cup

1 1/2 lbs. lamb shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1" pieces
about 1/4 cup matza meal
salt and freshly ground pepper
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1/4 cup tomato paste
2 tsp. bottled chopped garlic
2 cups water or vegetable broth
2 large onions, sliced
2 ribs celery, thinly sliced
2 carrots, sliced
1 14.5-oz. can chick peas, drained
1 10-oz. bag fresh spinach, coarsely chopped
1 cup coarsely chopped parsley, packed
harissa or hot pepper sauce to taste

Toss lamb in matza meal. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Set aside. In a large heavy pot, whisk together olive oil, tomato paste, garlic, and water or broth. Add onions, celery, carrots, and chick peas. Bring to simmer over medium heat. Place lamb on top. Raise heat to high, stir, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer. Cover and cook 30 minutes. Stir in the spinach and parsley; cover and cook 40 minutes longer or until lamb is tender. Stir often. Season to taste with harissa or hot pepper sauce, salt, and pepper. Cook, uncovered, two-three minutes longer. Serve hot. Serves six.

Cut squash or pumpkin in half; remove and discard seeds. Place squash, cut side down, in a microwave baking dish. Pierce several times with a sharp pointed knife. Pour about one-third cup water around. Cover with wax paper and microwave on high for 12 minutes or until tender when pierced with a fork in thickest part. Remove skin. Mash squash with a fork; transfer to a colander and let drain for about 30 minutes. Place in a bowl. Add onion, garlic, paprika, cumin, caraway seeds (optional), two tablespoons olive oil, harissa, and salt to taste. Mix well.