It's two years since Hurricane Katrina hit Louisiana, ravaging the communities of New Orleans. The storm and its aftermath are still making news, but I would like to think that our cherished images of New Orleans will prevail: its premier standing as the Big Easy, the capital of jazz and, of course, its status as the original home of Cajun cooking.

The Cajun culinary tradition is a combination of French and southern cuisines. The southern part is obvious, but you might need a refresher course in American history to see where the French came in. Back in the late 1700s the British forced French citizens out of Nova Scotia and sent them down to the badlands of Louisiana. In time, their cuisines melded with the local American Indian fare, thus creating Cajun cooking. ("Cajun" itself is transmuted from the word used by the local Indians to refer to the newcomers from the North.)

At the time, New Orleans was governed by the Spaniards, who gave the name Creole to anyone of European descent living in the area. Add to this mix the influx of the African slaves, and it became quite a combination of history, cultures, and flavors.

Cajun cookery is known for its intense use of (what we call) shmaltz and fiery spices, whereas the Creole styles used more cream, butter, and tomatoes. Both cuisines lavishly use bell peppers, onions, celery, file powder, and sassafras. A defining culinary marvel is the flavor of New Orleans seasonings — a combination of black, white, and cayenne pepper all blended together to create one powerful taste sensation.

Today the New Orleans cuisines are often referred to as Cajun-Creole. Although most Cajun-Creole cooking is thought to consist of treif ingredients, a smart kosher cook has the ability to exchange and substitute ingredients while maintaining the integrity of a dish.

Some of the more popular dishes are the etouffee, a thick, smothered stew, and gumbo, a soup often mistaken for a stew. Filled with chunks of okra, tomatoes, onions, chicken, sausage, and flavorful spices, this dish is a staple in any Louisiana kitchen. A seafood version is also very popular.

All gumbos and many other Cajun-Creole dishes begin with a dark roux — a slow-cooked earthy thickener made by slowly browning flour in shmaltz, oil, or butter. For the Jews of the area, it is a traditional dish to serve before Passover for good luck, with the addition of at least seven greens, including spinach, mustard greens, collard greens, and kale.

Another New Orleans mainstay with an intriguing name is Dirty Rice. The side dish is easily prepared in one pan. Chopped onion and garlic are stirred in preheated oil. As they're browning, the traditional blend of New Orleans spices is added — black, white, and cayenne peppers plus loads of paprika for color — along with vegetable stock. To clinch the dish, gumbo file — a mixture of sassafras and thyme — is a must; it thickens the dish, adds a rustic flavor, and its dark color puts the "dirt" in Dirty Rice.

World-renowned chef Paul Prudhomme is responsible for showcasing Cajun-style foods. His blackened fish has become one of the most copied dishes in the world. Using store-bought blackening spices, we can replicate this dish in our own homes. Dredge a thin steak, chicken breast, or fish on both sides and pan fry in a heavy skillet. But remember to open your window and disconnect your smoke alarm. This dish is really hot!

Another popular New Orleans dish is the Po' Boy. This sandwich consists of a fried fish filet — halibut, flounder, sole, or scrod — dressed with lettuce and tomato and smothered in a remoulade sauce made of mayonnaise, Creole spice, and a chopped medley of pickles, capers, celery, and pimiento. This well-known sandwich is a casual play on its traditional namesake: Poor Boy, referring to the underprivileged children who ate similar sandwiches filled with lesser quality meats or fish. (Abigael's Po' Boy is filled with blackened chicken, avocado, and Creole dressing.)

My last visit to New Orleans was just weeks before the hurricane's devastation. The flavors that I couldn't get enough of were the chicory-infused coffee that I treated myself to every morning and the Muffaletta sandwich. I bought pounds of chicory coffee to brew at home, and the sandwich soon became a staple in my kids' lunch bags. For the Muffaletta, pile an assortment of sliced turkey, bologna, and salami high on crusty bread. The authentic Muffaletta calls for a tangy relish of chopped olives, pickled onions, capers, red and green sweet bell peppers, olive oil, vinegar, oregano, and parsley.

It's not difficult to bring the flavors of the Big Easy into your kitchen. Your family will be glad you did with this Southern Fried Chicken Salad.