Tri, tri again
Apply the rule of three to Shavuot feasting

Recipe: FETTUCCINE WITH WILD MUSHROOMS

In years past, the Shavuot output from my kitchen was limited to cheese blintzes and creamy cheesecake. But all that's changed since I learned about the number three!

Interestingly, three is a prominent number in Jewish teachings: Our three patriarchs – Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob; three parts of the Bible – Torah, Prophets, and Holy Writings; and, specific to the holiday of Shavuot – the Torah was given to the Israelites in Sivan, the third month, through Moses, the third child in his family. Chef Jeffrey NathanTo recognize the power of three at this holiday, along with non-culinary activities, it is customary to eat three-sided kreplach – a cheese-filled dumpling.

To stray from conformity and in place of edible triangles this Shavuot, I'll prepare a three-course meal in three-part harmony. With "three" the operative number this holiday, I will arrange in threes –all arrangements in and out of the kitchen look better in odd numbers – and prepare a recipe whose main ingredient is featured in threes.

Early in my career I learned that the secret to a flavorful crock of onion soup is layer upon layer of several onion varieties. Bermuda, Spanish, and Vidalia onions all have individual flavors and nuances, as do shallots, scallions, and cipollini. As the layers build, the flavor of this aromatic soup becomes more complex. Not too many folks prepare this soup in their own homes, but it's really easy.

Choose any selection of three onions and slice into half moons. Add to a soup pot of heated olive oil to saute. Don't get overzealous in stirring the onions; you'll want them to brown slowly, so no need for much movement. In this way, the onions will caramelize, and their natural sugars will come through with rich flavor.

Slowly cook until the onions turn amber brown – don't burn them. Add sherry wine, vegetable broth, and a trio – naturally – of fresh herbs. Simmer until the flavors are combined. Transfer into individual ovenproof soup crocks and place them onto a baking sheet. Place a lightly toasted slice of French bread baguette onto the soup and cover with the next trio – three kinds of shredded cheese. A combination of muenster, mozzarella and fontina is my choice, as each is a terrific melting cheese with a distinct flavor. Together, these three cheeses will bring new flavor to the onion soup experience. Bake or broil until the cheese turns golden brown.

It's only fair to give equal table time to tomatoes after such a show of onions in the first course. A tri-tomato salad with field greens or arugula brings the beauty of color as well as simplicity and unadulterated taste. Late spring/early summer is a perfect time to choose from sweet grape, plum, beefsteak, and yellow pear tomatoes. No cook will go wrong as long as she or he picks what's fresh at the market and aims for variety in flavor and hue.

I've attached a recipe for Pasta with Wild Mushrooms as a fierce third course. Use any combination of mushrooms that you like to work with and round out your holiday table with other delights, such as olives and crudites, all in threes.

Whether you consider dessert a course or not, set up a table to wow your Shavuot guests. Fill a trifle bowl with layers of pound cake, raspberry Melba sauce, and whipped cream. Anything in a trifle bowl makes for a very pretty offering, so place this dessert front and center. Surround it with other desserts such as mini-scoops of sorbet or ice cream in three flavors. Arrange three types of cookies on a serving dish or a three-tiered dessert stand. And if you're looking for a dessert that's not too sweet, toss together three types of nuts –– walnuts, pecans and almonds work well at my house.

Whatever you choose to eat at this festival, remember the magic of Sinai and the beauty that is attached to this significant holiday.


FETTUCCINE WITH WILD MUSHROOMS

1/3 cup plus 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
12 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3/4 tsp. hot red pepper flakes
1 lb. assorted wild mushrooms (such as crimini, chanterelles, stemmed shiitake), sliced
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
5 ripe plum tomatoes, cut into 1-inch dice
1/3 cup coarsely chopped basil
1 lb. fettuccine

Combine one-third cup oil, garlic, and red pepper flakes in a large skillet over low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is light golden brown, about 15 minutes.

Add mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Continue cooking on low heat, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms give off their liquid, about 10 minutes. Add tomatoes and increase the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring often, until mushroom liquid evaporates and tomatoes begin to break down, about six minutes. Remove from heat and cover to keep the sauce warm.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add fettuccine and cook until pasta is al dente, about eight minutes. Scoop out and reserve half-cup of the pasta cooking water. Drain pasta well and return to the cooking pot.

Return mushroom sauce to a simmer. Stir basil, reserved pasta water, and remaining quarter-cup oil into mushrooms and cook two minutes. Stir into pasta. Serve immediately, with olive oil on the side for drizzling onto each serving. Makes four-six servings.

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